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JULY 11,1391. THE NEhV YORK LEDGICR. 13
now'tisunly", ‘ “ ‘ auu ' “ evil
n orning, Au I, when w i L Its. Ile slumbers quite half an hour,
4y '
i gust 3 e pcr our regii 1
way over logs laid on the submerged dock. w ist tie noble stee at his own well-
A SUMMER JAUNT IN THE DOMINION OF ge are fortunate in finding rooms at the regulated gait, holds to, the road and lets
‘ A oreiice quite clean and comfortable w orn we meet turn out. No one dreams
C and haidjust time to join co g gatio’ of di ' g the slumbcrer, ho recovers
M M o St Jean Bapti , thering in end his consciousness and lns rein sheepishly
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[A nAu(;ii'ri:,R 01-‘ THE LATE GENERAL sm.;RMAN,] pew,” s e smiles and shrugs hcrshoulders, that returning we can ourselves point out
AAAAAAAAA Am at which I address her in French and re- the “natural w l,’’ “D Le of Kent‘:
u .
ccivc halfthe cw with prompt oliteness. place," the “ Lunatic Asylum” and all the
All the prayer-books about us are French, 6: .
as we afterward Find most of the town.
0 THE FALLS or iiioN'riuoizi:Ncv.
h w
at llan or. Indeed, all of our fellow-trav- pa ' he a
ellers have been from New England, which spell of wanderin the narroiv old streets
rather justifies the hlicmacs in calling our '
country t e oston tates." Biithere is of woode
the one-horse conveyance whose owner, But we turn to the Du erin Terrace.
SH’ ‘
Montmorency, eight miles east of to high bluff of the upper town. ' 0 look
Crossing a stream, that is the S e a ‘
River, at high tid and almostdisappears wooded cights past Point Levis, and to
when the tide is out, our road runs parallel the east the ever uiur: Laurentian Hills, is
with the St. Lawrence, and we pass within an everlastin ‘oy. But we had supposed
sight of Jae ucs Cartier’s monument, t '
erected on the spot ii here he spent his nrst seem neither worthy nor sufl-icient.l' endur-
winter in Cana a in 1534.
I am fascinated by Beauport, avilla e such a height. The governorls garden
through which we pass, where the French e
homes are one-sioricd buildings. with the a monument doubly noble in recording
A CANADIAN CALECHE. second stories in immense shelving roofs. t e v or o w contesting generals‘
They are neatly painted, unless stone, Wolfe and Montcalm. The following clo-
ri ti nisontlei onu nt:
, . and as the doors stand ajar, I long for an qucnt insc p o me
NUMBER THREI-‘.. The vessel swings about to let the huge extended glimpse o t e interior lie.
: rock hang over us; then, moving slowly, Upon almost every doorstc or narrow “MORTF-My VIRTUS COMMUNEM
A T S T A L P K O V S E the whistle blows, when a few seconds later porch 5115.3 group of rosv-cheelsed, blacl:- A AM IIISTORIA
' ' ' oursalute is returned by “ Trinity” in echo. eyed babies, their fat little egs incasecl in “ONUMEN-I-UM POSTERITAS
s Realizingwe were at a standstill,l “turn “Eternit ” is no ess magnihcently bold, brig t home-knit am, and as cheerful- DEB”. u
out," in sailor's parlance, and being rst and there is no hint or glimpse of another c ored frocks put on for Sunday. '
e
on deck, stroll alone into the villa or world in this “valley of death.” Clouds church and convent are in the center of Then beyond is the citadel, still higher
rather scattered hamlet. Nothing can he have collected, and the cold, drizzling rain this five-mile village, and the way‘ up moated, walled, r til a
m viell- is driving many from the deck-so, unfor- with church-goers. The ruins of
ings, except, perhaps, the lives of the in- tunately, we must see Tadousac, thati calm’s headquarters look mournfulcnough, him in. t
habitants, who are dispersed widely over cheerful, picturesque settlem nt, in th having been burned after sewing as flour- fearing Sunday regulations, when a fe-
this bleak re 'on. Tic large size of their rain. Nothing daunted, llI(lll’l’1 the rain mills for an “Ornngeman.” Again on his ma , om a mysterious window some-
church surprises me,but I am told it serves is pour-in down, we don our mackintoshes l absorbing road is the tiniest chapel ever where, called out: “ Yo
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u wis to get hin,
a great neighborhood, and is only propor- and cross the gang-plank. Such quain seen, now very old and out 0 use. on’t you ?" We did, so we followed her
Fr ' tionate to the number ofparishioners who rigs to s ect from, but 10 are really s::- We cross the Montmorency. River, a instructions and found .1 gate a out which
gather from far and near on Sundays. Its lected and quickly tucked into what seems i foaming, amber torrent, walled in by late some red-coats were lozifing and the usual
interior decorations are beautiful in white to be the covered seat of an old-fashioned formation. Some yards beyond, ' disap- sentry pacingup an d wn jaunty little
and gold; quite the handsomest country buggy or us’-board-whilst the chipper ears in resounding roars. The verdure soldier with his round cap perilously near
church I have ever seen. The Canada has little Frenchman moun an uncovered fringing the turbulentstrcam dips its vivid- iis left eye and his chin strapped painfully
I brought to the natives crates of czibbages, lfront seat. He turns his cont-collar up to , green foliage in the spray to the very edge tight with its leather band, guide us
s and in return is now loading up with blue- keep out ' ‘ V iocrfiilly as uftlil: falls Leaving our carrinr ahn t. Ilistorya mpogmphywere dealt
the ram, an smi ‘cl . go, we pay ii nd
berries. . Such blueberries and cream! We lie chats zlrlijcliyully ! He had once can fiy ccnts to enter a grove, and guided by out to us ineagerly, but “ the regiment pet
can nevtlr forgctt em. C ose to in .rI to the States as g rdener for avery ' bear," “the colonel” and “the gam
- ' her of on '
d uh ‘
uniu
y . rs in Pennsylvania. We to call the falls La Vache, we come in sight i lacrosse " were congenial topics.
which “WY P3)’ fiflccn t‘t‘IH N h" hr‘ fr-= 1 , as ‘c y " ‘ ' " ‘ uebec. The storied town u on her The place where Montgomery fell, scal-
nd ship “to Canada and the States." ‘i‘i‘c ua lldltll" more congenial to gardening. high, armored hill, the islands famous in ing the face of the fortress and the land-
have piled up on the lower deck, near the He answered in Canadian French: her battles. the great river in its ceaseless i slide that buried forty houiscs some years
steerage, two hundred and severity boxes, “ Bu ' ' ' ‘
t l have a wife and eight children course carry my iiiin back to other days a o, were pointed out; t with great
each holding two dozen cans. ere. I would he homesick there.” and pe ' ‘ '
There are fifteen priests aboard, almost The quaint miniature chapel. perched the ast. From no other point in our vis' “Ah,” said a Boston girl, pretendinggreat
allofthcm French, and those whom I have just within the Saguenay’s entrance, has have we caught such a gran glimpse of interest, “you captured this at Bunker
‘ ' J to ‘ the old cit . Then turning,rwe lbclield the Hill; well, you keep the un and we will
0 ro ’ " Th
, ‘ a rln , V g
. ing men. , Vbt. Lawrence, during the efventful Montmorcncy, a column ling mist. keep the . e soldiers were playing
p At eight o'clock we descend the river. centuries, and noiv stands silentamidst the l We descend man steps down the deep lacrosse, which cause me som alar
l c ut
d e in
The a It, shadowy mountain-sides oflast winter blasts that block nian’s commerce ravine, b the ivihd carries the spray so in spite of t e assurance that the ball was
night are outlined in bare rock and ' lig . is the View that d 5 to
sparse cedar growth. Into this deso- (hg g,-games; D1’ Quebwca dreamy
late i y Jacques Cartier pene- ‘ ' e ' ‘
BREE ‘mm 6 en “I1” precious day a d only one other
Champ in and Lescarbot rendered day to see what “e um 3
this region historic by a ingz Iingefgd over inde y, so we
KW“ Indlfm C0““CIl 0 5 5110755 find tulithzanddrive to thePl:Iins
in 160 T eheroicjcsuitslabored 0 A ham 'liy ad we not
3 SHFIEYCEI In WIS 5‘ "1051 "330 clopted one of these odd vehicles
cessihle wilderness amon the for our em, ay, “ch 3 mg
Indians, who were universallyofthe
1 Catholic faith two hundred years
ago. upon the horse's back and cl so
Liguenay is in place ne before us was the driver seated on
‘ hundred f.ithoms deeper than the the cushioned dn5h.boa,-d, T1,.-,
59 3“l’C“C9; 95 “""3“i Swlfiz motion and air were so exhilarat-
the approach to Cape Trinity. No
d ' ‘ an give '
escription c with the solitary marble erected
S
solemn immensit . In sliecr rc- to Wolfe
ci tous rock and scanty vcrdure “HERE DEB
Alan: lhls triple peak eighteen liun- VOL”:
l clrcd feet above us, an at its base V!“ R V
in: rushing atcristhrcc thousand 9 ‘Obs
five hundred f et de T ne 5El’T- 13:
who has beheld it the suggestion i7 .”
of its name hlls the mind and soul
with the mighty mystery to which
it raises a 5i nt hymn.
A white cross is mounted upon
is the inscription.
Back to the town, st he
ROAD TO MONTMORENCV FALLS THROUGH BEAUFORT.
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the Blessed Virgin. It looks but I I if iv
li c-size, yet is thirty feet in height. As with tons of ice, a small monument to thickly upon us that we are forced to heat tom) we arrive in astonished safety at the
silence reigns amongst us, the still air wafts Pere de Crepreul, its founder. It is much a retreat and feast our eyes upon the ' - entrance ofa charming c .1 e ,
: up the hymn of “ Ave Maris Stella", rom too small for use and has been supplanted LIL: ml and near from a high point. We Such fre mess I have never seen outside
2 twenty manly throats. ltis alsurpnse to by apvery large bare structure near c v ' 1 e ' '
us all, and how prayerful and impressive! The interesting salmon fisheries must be flowers C e Hurt, as French as the and from ‘the loft sound sweet, clear
Iloston man, of a different faith, con- left for our next visit. So we return to the red and blue-hosed infants on the quaint soprano voices-the ray Nuns singing
(55595, arm,-Wm ; oat, and I might say to Quebec, in the narroiv Ileauport pore es. Then we drive the benediction.
-t “ It has brought tears to my eyes." pouring rain. We always arrive early, so home, uui interest riveted upon our driver, We walk to the hotel reviewing our day,
c
e must slide to reach the bot-
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