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JULY 4. 1501.
BY MRS. E. S.
[A DAUGHTER or THE LATE GENERAL Slll-2RMAN.]
OLD BEGGAR AT ST. PETERS.
NUMBER Two.
It is Saturday morning, August twenty-
third, and we ave been one week on our
A SUMMER JAUNT IN THE DOMINION OF
CANADA.
THE NEW YORK LEDGER.
THACKARA.
l and a r
the fields. We turn reluctantl
the shabby town, but our eight-mile walk
furnishes the ncedful sauce for a homely
su er.
13
and to the north are the farms and fields
hill overlooking Pictou and its harbor, we i of the island
Our breakfast is excellent. and the atten-
tiv garmrr: a vise us to a 'e our
napkins with us in their birch bark rings.
in order to be sure to have the same ones
‘o‘
-.
E-
::
:1
ca
-1
At ei lit bells, or four o'clock in the
afternoon, we lose sight of land, yet there
is no disagreeable motion wlmtcv ..
TRAVELLING DY NIGHT.
the deck it is charmin , the
wa gr
into it and the crescent rises cold and sil-
very froin its rich bosom. ‘
and the stars recbly shine, whilst our train
is a. sparkling shecu.
At midnight the deck is quite dark, with
only a few tourists trying to keep warm in
.he lee of the smoke-stacks. he moon is
a russet orange, froiu which the great bear
must have had a l)’
in h
bare rock rises far out from tlie'ruggcd
. - . - J J
h
vails, even over the passengers who
L 4 s I um“ .. . -
wastut crce. ,,
and eighty feet straight toward the skies,
bare but for the myriad birds that build
an ive upon '. The five hu dred feet
of its length are divided between the gulls
an cormorants wio wage perpetual war
heir ' ' 'hnunrhric A tunnel
letters to Pictou, “but they cannot get
there till Tuesday," he adds, and we will
leave there Monday evening. “F0
t em to 'QJu
"-
3
3
n.
ebec," I say in feeble tones.
- - F M" . 1
all is ready to lealve From a sail-boat be-
calmed (all life
pierces its base, through which small boats
hei-e seems calmed by a can pass, and now the foam-topped waves
mighty spell) come subdued sounds ofidance and splash beneath its arched roof.
merrimcnt
Now a row-boat glides out from the
shadow of a ship or wharf and draws a
glittering train abaft. We move smoothl
away an ass the narrow entrant to the
harborwit itscrimson scntinellights. As
I A I -
Journey. D
St. Peters that locked us into the rock-
, yet there is an unu ual ex-
5
Ln! -.
-.
n the hill.
d a white matted fringe
natrherl and mm D
stuf'Ted here and there with straw, whilst
his old shoes are mangers. is icture
will describe him better than my pen, but
his expression a cy ' rous disdain
p;y- ‘ ‘ , ’ milcsbyrailiii tliieedays.
lot are travelling slowly-very,slo'wly-
four miles. But why hurry in this land a
peace? VVe may disturb the pretty sheep
. The mutton of the country is
famous, and deservedly so, as we have con-
Then, too, the travellers
l on the berries
P
dating express-train loiter on its way, rest-
ing occasionally some twenty minutes.
Then we are in good time at New Glasgow i
(or a two o'clock dinner, served with inap-
did not this accommo- fw s
,. t e moon ight t
phantom shores recede from
state-rooms presenting a much
viting appearance than our late
slumber. e
Island, when the fresh‘ morning br eze ro d by two stout F nl fis men,
ough my port hole lures me eclr bri us a dozen passengers, then follow, '
Five o'clock by my small time piece is from this same b ad oat, their tru L q
really four in these regions, so there po manieaux, satchels, val es and every V
e tirring, thoug ve ar nearing variety oflu ag Another boat is being ‘'
first st p, Summerslde. My fellow traiel- unl aded by great pulley ropes over he
er JOINS me as we ake the landing an si e, f boxes and b to an endless
we g sh re 2 s rince ‘dwar number Pa e shl ’1his weird sc
e mysterious har or of erc an
view.
more in- Iboats leave
d
In
1‘ Prince Edward's l a
' h variation
all groves of evergreens there terns, quick jabberiiig of French jokes an
aughte er a o. r a
l ore it stands an obelisk that once made
a part of the gigantic rock, but has been
severed by the battling sea.
quarters an
f we separate in anticipation of delicious I water-witches creep up to our leqivard side.
‘ re - . . . J L L ,,,.,,;,
P1! nn no
most curiously foreign . . . One boat,
continues w
r, but nev an o curse.
nrc. , hurno
beggars both. He holds forth to the pass- propriate impctuosity, so that, positively, xcasional sm
engers upon his blindness and begs for from soup to “tawts" (tarts) inclusive, isadcarth of trees. The land seems fcr- l
pennies. I ten minutes barely elapse. We are to tile, for there are fairly good farms, but
A“..ut'n, , ' ‘ " ' “ ‘ ‘ andlinitupnn sqiian. uh. '" '- ‘ -I I
5 ' fl‘ "- ‘ ' We The suburbs, instead of the rettil
farce. Uul .. r ' ’ neith
poor nor blind, butaconsummate actor,
’ ‘ “I am well ac-
an came o 'ith
Montcalm paid money, money l" As her
' -‘ ' - with" K A
‘ mm houron
leave New Glasgow at three-ten-ui
' “thereabauts,” as we had learned to ex-
is
.-
pe
V hy did Imention the deliberation of
V
that flying train .n. have just left? It was i
"‘ “‘ ‘ speed
in
yards and dismal-looking
way-side well or pump tempts us, for
rcls catch the rain-water, or are sunk un
a‘
nu. nu ‘ I . compared to this, which
1",; 1.33.1, rm .-vi-i-um.-i J 1 I v w - J
“ My nameis Gcor G-O R G. You are to expect it suddenly to switch oil‘ and go
quite welcome, but I trust to your gener-
. . . . . .. .
to the photographer, who was deaf and
dumb, amused the crow
P-
4
<
m
e‘:
‘Z
..
E?-
In
gliding by the long procession of quiet,
rural hamlets once again, enter the Strait
o anso.
There on the port side is Termina.l City,
which is to be the future starting-point of
the trans-Atlantic steamers. hey c aim
they can save a day in time between New
York and Liverpool with two da 5 less
ocean travel, for here they are a thousand l
mi s nearer England. The trip by rail
from 'ew Yor will be made short a
comfortable (shorter and more comfortable l
would mean nothing . s nglish capital .
is invested, there will probably be no pains
spared, t ough their projects seem ex-
in completion to a
ahead-ative American."
Ilefore leaving the Alarfan, on which we
have spent two such chzirmingdays, lmust
recall the uniform
throughout Cape Breton, including every‘
. . L‘ rive, hm .- .
=
9-
ug .
few French, many Englis
courtesy shown us any
forwar at some speed, ut the comical
' ' so amuses the American tourists
that jokes flow back and forth but not a
person rights is seat.
has gone through t e dillere
wet fog, and develops, through falling mist,
. Not a
vehicle in sight,
but the ever-ready
small boy lugs the
trap ‘lst in
Mackintoshes we
tramp alon .
The clezir morning , I
nt stages of l
whic a tiny tattered maiden is
ing a filled buc 'e!.
A young “ slip" of a buy comes singing ‘
I listen with some curi-
osit hopin to hear an English ditty but
distinctly understand the word “ Mc-
m So ‘ ih
down the road.
Ginty," to horror. it w
as
even in the romantic isle of Cape Breto
shaded white cottages of Cape Breton, are janiers wide: I"
‘ unpainted slianties, forlorn
ill’-
in-
vitingly in the running streams, from one
' ' ‘ , ' carry-
:1
From one boat two huge baskets of fresh
‘ ‘ L " and for ha an hour
at intervals a man calls: “Clitrrlicz It:
When the paniers are
finally thrown to him from deck one goes
peop e. o -overboard into t e blackness; yet only a
joke and a merry search for it follow, and
off they go, bending to the oars. ‘ ht
large boats, broader and deeper than the
Rhode Island “cat-boat," thus unloaded,
rn
at
5
n
=-
o
-1
a
E.
=.
in
the darkness, a curious tourist co
on deck accosted a fellow-passenger in a
sleepy, aggrieved tone
at “ Where '5 that rockibusiness anyhow?"
‘ You're too early, my iend;
, and take
n It's hnc
daylight,”answered
his 0 i 'ng in-
“ Scenery
at two A.M. doesn't
u
turn in
another
r by
And he went be-
low to finish his
reams.
At daylight we
have rounded Point
t. Peter and en-
tered tlielovely Bay
o ‘aspe, passing a
mountainous coast
with fishing villages
o one hand and a
lrish. is the quiet the cause oftheir guud mp
marine s, h is it that at home our main so long w h I ,, ral muse
serenity is co antly imperiled by the ab- out one growl, eat ‘ " I ia a contra
surd rudeness of h t l lerks a d ticket- of the pies and GASPE BAY. with shabby Sum-
scllcrs? Even Mr. 0. h . Holmes admits cakes abundantly,’ mer e an 5
his humility before tlieserriightymagnates. even pic up-thanks to the hostess -a the tune of “Annie Rooney" was con- dreary surroundings! A g od, bracing
recipe for excellent corn-bread, but whisper ‘ stantly wafted over the murmuring waters ‘ walk up the hilly road in the sparkling air
SLOW TRAVELLING’ in the far-oh’ count “'D0d: f our discom- of the Bras D’()r. is delicious; the water view and wooded
VVe are at Mulgrave and rush for mail, fort ‘ ' ost unkind of me, for noih- s we leave Summerside, with which we heights beyond are beautiful lei‘ lwo
this being our first chance of receiving let-
ters. The post-ofnce, to our orror, is
L 1 1‘ mile away, " ‘
in twcnty minutes, or at ten-twenty.
have nolonging to be better acquainted, hours of loading and unloading, we turn
L L L I . A 'I . r m ‘
mg can be in
tainers, and our bill for two days is IUUI
’ " ‘ Eftv cents.
Sundaymorning at Picto ewarmest
station-master kindly otTers to forward my
u is ih
day we have had and is intensely sultry.
, Uul
the low and broken shores of New Bruns-
The day is delicious, mildly fresh,
I . . - . . .
u
wick.
with no , I
out of the bay. The shores rise higher,
and the fishermcn's huis look perilously
' , ‘ ‘ ‘ ‘ whilst 'n